How To Make A Pom-Pom

One of the best things about making pom-poms is that you really don't need many tools, but if you have the right ones, then it's easy.

What you'll need to get started:

Making a pom-pom is a lot easier than it looks,

just start winding!

1. Secure the end of the yarn to any notch on either arm of any Loome tool model. Wind yarn around arms, make sure tension is not too tight or too loose. 

Note: Mix it up! You can use more than one colour. 

2. Wind 140 revolutions. When done, secure end to any notch, then cut. Note: Generally, with worsted weight yarn 90 revolutions will give you a 2.5cm* trimmed, dense pom-pom, 120=3cm, 175=4.5cm, 200+=5cm. (*approx.) 

3. Cut 30cm strong string. While yarn is on Loome tool, take strong string and tie a tight double knot around the centre of yarn bundle.

4. Gently wedge yarn bundle off the Loome tool. Flip yarn bundle and make another even tighter double knot on the other side.

5. Flip yarn bundle for a third time and make another even tighter double knot.

Note: Tight double knots hold the pom-pom together. 

6. Take scissors and cut loops on both sides in half. Make sure you cut all loops, some may be hiding.

7. Next, it's time to trim. Take the pom-pom trim guide, match it centre to centre. Start the haircut by snipping around the trim guide. Flip and repeat. Then, cut like a real haircut to finish shaping.

If you want more details on how to trim your pom-pom down, check out our post, How To Use The Pom-Pom Trim Guide. Don't have time to source all the materials separately? Grab one of our Pom-Pom Starter Kits; they come in different colourways and include a book of instructions, tips and projects to make with your pom-poms!

Happy pom-poming!

How To Use The Pom-Pom Trim Guide

Have you ever wondered how people get their pom-poms perfectly round? I'll let you in on a little secret: they use a trim guide. 

This small circular guide helps shape and trim down your pom-pom super accurately, and also quickly. We stock the Loome Pom-Pom Trim Guides in our shop, which are made of bamboo but you could also make one yourself at home out of cardboard or strong card-stock. What I love about the Loome ones though, is that they're strong and sturdy, made from bamboo, and won't bend while trimming. Plus, they double up as a kumihimo cord maker!

Let's get started!

1. Make your pom-pom

Check out our tutorial how to make a pom-pom. Once you've tied your middle string, you're ready to trim. I always start by trimming the middle strings down, so that they don't show later. Then, trim all your loops. Make sure none are hiding down inside.

2. Place trim guide centre-to-centre and cut

Then, place your trim guide in the centre of the pom-pom and holding it firmly, snip generously around the guide, keeping your scissors close to the guide. Don't be scared, the first could cuts are a bit of a hack job to get the general shape.

using a pom-pom trim guide
trimming the pom-pom

3. Turn your pom-pom and trim again

Turn the pom-pom on its side, so that your trim guide is now flat against the side you just cut and cut around the guide again.

4. Fine tuning

Now you can put your trim guide to the side, and use your scissors to trim slowly around your pom-pom until you get the desired density. Start by trimming one side first, then rotating your pom-pom and trim the shaggier areas of the pom-pom. 

half-trimmed pom-pom
finished colour-burst pom-pom

Every now and then, roll your pom-pom in your hands and use your fingers to fluff out the pom-pom to find any strands hidden inside that need to be trimmed. 

And that's your pom-pom trimmed up nice and quickly with the trim guide! Made some pom-poms? Share them with us on Instagram using the tag #gettingsewcial!

How To Make Origami Diamonds

paper diamonds.jpg

If you've been scrolling through Pinterest and come across some of the folded-paper decor trends, then you've likely come across these paper diamonds. Made in bright and colourful paper, or in striking monochrome prints, they look fab stuck to the wall or a bed headboard with a piece of washi tape. Just look at how these ones are styled, made by Origami Est, author of Paper Home.

These gorgeous paper diamonds are a fun way to add colour and dimension to a room. Pile them on a mantle, display them on a tray on the coffee table or sideboard, hand them from a shelf or washi-tape them directly on a wall. This origami paper trend is a beaut and are relatively simple to make. Ready to give it a try?

Edited and made by Sara Kock Madsen Filmed by Thomas Skjoldborg Music: Say my name (feat. Zyra) [Hayden James Remix] - ODESZA

The fiddliest part of the whole process is definitely glueing the two halves together. I found that going easy on the glue helps, and trying not to apply it too close to the outside edge, in case of any overflow. 

Anyone else jumping onto this paper trend? 

circus paper origami diamond
hand holding origami diamond

Mother's Day Paper Cut Cards Tutorial

I love paper cutting. I also love my mom. So I whipped up this template for a lovely paper cut Mother's Day card just in time for you all to make your mom's lovely handmade Mother's Day cards.

If you're reading this from the US, you're probably thinking, "Say what? Mother's Day is in May!" And you're right. But since I'm Canadian, living in London, I get to celebrate this lovely day twice a year.

Let's get started on our cards, shall we?

What you'll need:

  • card template
  • blank square 13cm x 13cm card with matching envelope (10 for £2 in our shop)
  • graphite transfer paper (you can find this on Amazon or at London Graphic Centre)
  • craft scalpel cutting knife
  • cutting mat (a kitchen cutting board will do in a pinch)
  • decorative paper for the inside
  • pen or pencil
  • glue stick

Let's do it:

1. Download and print the card template at 100%. Cut it out along the dotted lines. Open your card and lay your sheet of graphite paper face down on the left-hand side of the open card. Then lay your template face up on top of it. We're transferring our design in reverse on the inside of the card so that we don't have to go back and rub out the graphite marks on the front of the card.

mothers-day-card-tutorial

2. Using a pencil or pen, trace along all the lines of the template to transfer the design. If you lose track of where you've traced and where you haven't, simply hold tight onto one corner so the template doesn't move and life up the transfer paper.

mothers-day-card-tutorial-2

3. Once your design has been transferred, it's time to cut! It's important to have a sharp blade when paper cutting in order to get a nice, clean finish. Take it slow and cut with a constant and firm pressure.

Remember: It’s easiest to cut towards yourself. Always rotate your work as you go to avoid cutting at awkward angles or away from yourself; this is especially true when cutting curves.

4. When you have finished cutting out your design, admire your knife skills from the front of the card. So pretty, right? If you need to tidy up any edges, just turn the card over and clean up some of the cuts. If your edges look a bit ragged, it's probably time to change the blade in your knife, or use firmer pressure while cutting.

mothers-day-card-4

5. Next, cut a piece of decorative paper slightly smaller than the size of the card. In our case that would be 12.5cm x 12.5cm. Use a glue stick around the edge of the design and in a few places in the middle and stick your paper pretty side down so that it shows on the front of the card.

mothers-day-card-tutorial-3

6. You're done! Write a sweet message for your mom on the inside and tuck it into an envelope.

Share your handmade cards with us! We're on Instagram and Twitter and would love to see your handmade creations.

mothers-day-card-tutorial-5

Marbling Fabric with Shaving Foam

This is one of the coolest craft things I have done in a while. It's actually quite simple to do, doesn't use any expensive materials that you might not already have at home and creates the prettiest fabric that can be used for your next project. 

What you need:

  • Shaving foam
  • Fabric
  • Fabric paint
  • Wooden or metal ruler for scraping (a wooden lolly stick works well too)
  • Rubber spatula
  • A shallow tray (a baking tray with a lip is perfect)
  • Toothpick or wooden skewer
  • Paper towels

How to do it:

Spray your foam into the tray, smooth it out with your rubber spatula. Add your fabric paint either with a paint brush, or squeeze it out, or use your wooden skewer to scoop it out.

Use the skewer to swirl it around. Be careful not to over-mix, or else you'll lose the marbling effect.

Place your fabric right side down onto the shaving foam and use your hand to smooth out the fabric so that its all touching the shaving foam. You'll be able to see the pattern transferring onto the fabric from the back if your fabric isn't too thick.

Lift up your fabric from the corner and place it down on a paper towel. Use your ruler to scrape away the shaving cream. Lay it to dry.

You can get 2-3 transfers like this, but I found the second and third transfers were a bit faded, so try adding a bit more paint, or a new colour and having another go.

After a few tries, here are a few of the things I have learnt and also a couple of tips and tricks if you fancy trying this at home too.

1. You don't need too much foam.

The layer of foam on your tray doesn't actually have to be too deep. I practically used up an entire (although small canister) can for 3 sessions. I learned after the first one that if you spray some on, you can spread it out thinner with a spatula.

2. Use fabric paint, instead of acrylic paint

I did tests with both kinds of paint. I used DYLON fabric paints for some and acrylic paint mixed with textile medium for others and every time the fabric paint worked better. It just soaks into the fabric quicker and adheres better than acrylic paint does. 

 Acrylic paints mixed with fabric medium

Acrylic paints mixed with fabric medium

 DYLON fabric paint

DYLON fabric paint

3. If you do use acrylic paint, let it set a bit before you scrape

After you peel back your fabric, let it set a bit and dry, not too dry that the shaving foam dries but half-hour or so. Then the paint will set a bit into the fabric before you scrape away the shaving foam. This worked mostly well with lighter colours, but unfortunately even after letting it set a bit, the dark blue will scraped away and left me with a mottled pattern. Still aright, but not that nice.

4. Don't forget to heat-set your paints

After scraping off the shaving foam, let your fabric dry a bit so that the paint can properly dry. Then run it under cold water to get rid of all the shaving foam. Then, heat-set the paint according to the instructions on the packet. For DYLON paints, this means putting a cloth over your paint and ironing it on a med-high heat for a few seconds. I then tossed all my pieces into the wash to make sure all the shaving foam was really off, ironed it again and it was ready to use.